The Dolomites are one of those places that can make you feel like you have accidentally stepped into a postcard. Jagged limestone peaks rise dramatically above green alpine meadows, rifugios sit high on mountainsides, and every turn in the road seems to reveal another view that makes you stop and reach for your camera.
But there is one thing I learned when planning a Dolomites trip...where you stay matters!
The Dolomites aren't one compact destination. They stretch across a large area of northern Italy, and the mountain ranges, valleys and villages each have their own personality. If your goal is to hike, choosing the right home base can mean the difference between spending your day on the trail and spending your day driving to the trailhead.
Three places that stand out are Cortina d'Ampezzo, Ortisei, and San Candido. Each gives you access to a different side of the Dolomites, and each offers a slightly different experience.
If you're trying to decide where to stay in the Dolomites, here's how I would think about these three towns.
Where to Stay in the Dolomites: Three Incredible Home Bases for Hiking and Exploring
Cortina d'Amprezzo: The Classic Dolomites Experience
If you've seen photos of the Dolomites, there's a good chance some of them were taken around Cortina d'Ampezzo. I mean, they were splattered all over since the Winter Olympics were held there in 2026!
Known as one of the most famous mountain towns in Italy, Cortina sits in a valley surrounded by some of the most dramatic peaks in the Dolomites. It also has a long history as a destination for both winter sports and summer hiking.
For me, Cortina makes a particularly good base if you want a combination of mountain scenery, accessible hiking, famous peaks, mountain history and a lively town to return to at the end of the day.
The official Cortina tourism organization lists more than 400 kilometers of marked trails in the area, ranging from relatively easy walks to challenging high-altitude routes.
And the list of mountains you can access from here is impressive.
I will say that Cortina did have an upscale vibe to me. It felt like a ski town first. And an expensive one at that. You'll find high end shopping in town and restaurants and hotels that reflect the upscale vibe. If you don't generally enjoy the high end town feel {think Whistler BC, Aspen or Park City} then this town may not be "it" for you.
Hike the Cinque Torri
The Cinque Torri, or Five Towers, are some of the most recognizable rock formations around Cortina.
You don't have to be an experienced climber to enjoy them. The area has hiking trails suitable for a range of abilities, including a loop around the towers that combines spectacular scenery with remnants of World War I trenches and fortifications.
The Cinque Torri loop is about 6 kilometers with approximately 250 meters of elevation gain, making it a good option when you want an iconic Dolomites hike without committing to an all-day mountain adventure.
There are also rifugios along the route, which is one of my favorite things about hiking in the Dolomites. A mountain hike doesn't necessarily mean carrying every meal and snack with you. You can stop for lunch, enjoy a drink and sit down for a while while still surrounded by some of the most spectacular scenery in Europe.
There is a chair lift to access the trail, but you can also hike up like we did. The trail to hike Cinque Torri was very busy. The hike up, not so much.
We accessed Cinque Torri on the way out of Cortina d'Amprezzo on our way to Ortisei. It was the perfect spot to stop as we drove to our next destination.
Tofana: Big-Mountain Views Without a Big Hike
One of the things I love about using Cortina as a base is that you don't have to immediately tackle a strenuous hike to experience the mountains. Tofana is a perfect example.
The Tofana mountain group rises dramatically above Cortina, with several peaks reaching more than 3,000 meters. But thanks to the Tofana–Freccia nel Cielo cable car, you can get high into the mountains without spending hours climbing to get there.
The cable car takes you from Cortina up toward Tofana di Mezzo, reaching an elevation of about 3,244 meters. From the upper station, you're surrounded by an incredible panorama of the Dolomites, with views stretching across the surrounding peaks and valleys. On a clear day, the views alone make the ride worthwhile.
And this is one of those experiences I would put on your first day in the Dolomites, especially if you've just arrived after a long travel day.
I'm a big fan of not scheduling a strenuous hike immediately after getting off a plane. Between travel fatigue, adjusting to a new place and simply needing a little time to get your bearings, the first day doesn't always need to be your biggest adventure.
Taking the cable car up Tofana gives you that immediate "I'M IN THE DOLOMITES!" moment without requiring a huge physical commitment.
You can take in the views, walk around at altitude, grab something to eat or drink, and simply enjoy being surrounded by some of the most spectacular mountains in Italy. If you're feeling energetic, there are additional hiking possibilities in the area, but you don't have to turn the outing into an all-day trek.
That's what makes Tofana such a great introduction to Cortina.
Save the serious hiking for the days when you've recovered from your journey. On arrival day, take the cable car, soak in the views and let the Dolomites make their first impression.
And honestly, after spending hours traveling to get there, I'm perfectly happy with an itinerary that involves a cable car, spectacular scenery and very little sweating. I might have even taken a nap after lunch near one of the rifugios.
Don't overlook the big peaks
Cortina also gives you access to some serious mountain territory.
The area includes the Lagazuoi, Cristallo, Sorapis, Croda Rossa d'Ampezzo, and other major peaks. Cortina's official guide identifies six peaks above 3,000 meters in the surrounding area.
You don't have to climb all of them to appreciate them. In fact, that's one of the things I love about the Dolomites. Cable cars and lifts can put you remarkably high in the mountains, allowing you to experience the scenery without every outing becoming a summit expedition.
Stay in Cortina if: you want the classic Dolomites experience, famous peaks, lots of hiking choices, mountain history, excellent restaurants and a town with plenty happening after the hiking boots come off.
Ortisei: The Place I'd Choose for Seceda and the Val Gardena
If your dream of the Dolomites involves rolling green meadows with impossibly jagged peaks rising behind them, put Ortisei on your list.
Ortisei is located in Val Gardena in South Tyrol and has a completely different feel from Cortina. It's a beautiful alpine village with a pedestrian-friendly center, restaurants, shops and a long tradition of woodcarving.
But the real reason hikers should consider staying here is the access to Seceda, the Odle/Geisler peaks, Sassolungo and the Alpe di Siusi.
We found that Ortisei was extremely accessible by foot and by the bus. We parked our rental car and didn't use it the whole time we were in the area.
Pro Tip: Most area hotels/apartments will give you a Gardena bus pass for free for the duration of your stay. It's not the best bus system {it doesn't run often and often runs late}, but it's something and it makes getting around in the area easier.
Seceda is the star
If you have ever seen that iconic Dolomites photograph of a green ridgeline dropping dramatically toward a wall of jagged peaks, there's a good chance you're looking at Seceda.
The summit is around 2,519 meters and offers expansive views toward the Odle/Geisler peaks, Sassolungo, Sassopiatto, the Sella Group and the Alpe di Siusi.
The easiest way to get there from Ortisei is by cable car.
And this is where Ortisei becomes such a fantastic hiking base. You can ride the lift up and immediately find yourself in high alpine territory rather than spending hours climbing from the valley.
Pro Tip: Buy a 3 or 5 day Gardena Lift Pass, it will pay for itself! This area is VERY heavily reliant on chair lifts and some of them can be quite expensive. The Gardena pass will pay for itself in no time, trust me!
There is a timed reservation system in place for Seceda. Keep that in mind when planning your trip.
This area has seen the most dramatic change for visitors in the past few years that I've noticed. The area is owned by local farmers who have become quite annoyed at the influx of disrespectful tourists. Please stick to the trails, don't pick wildflowers or jump fences, and respect the personal homes that are in the area.
Hike beneath the Odle
From Seceda, trails wind through alpine meadows beneath the dramatic Odle peaks.
This is one of those places where I would be perfectly happy to spend an entire day without worrying about checking another attraction off a list.
Walk and get away from the crowds.
Stop at a mountain hut.
Have lunch.
Take approximately 4,000 photographs of the same mountain.
Walk some more.
Stop at another rifugio and get lunch.
If you've got the Gardena pass, you can take the Fermeda chairlift back up to the top of Seceda before heading off the mountain.
That's the kind of Dolomites day that appeals to me.
The area has both gentle hiking routes and more demanding via ferrata and climbing options, so you can tailor your day to your experience and energy level.
Explore the Alpe di Siusi
Another huge advantage to staying in Ortisei is access to Alpe di Siusi, one of Europe's largest high alpine plateaus.
This area is completely different from the dramatic rock walls of the Cinque Torri or Lagazuoi. Instead, you'll find expansive meadows, rolling hills, mountain huts and views toward Sassolungo, Sassopiatto and the Sciliar.
The Alpe di Siusi hiking area has hundreds of kilometers of trails, ranging from leisurely walks to more ambitious mountain routes.
It's also a great reminder that a Dolomites hiking trip doesn't have to mean conquering a peak every day.
Some days, you might want a challenging climb.
Other days, you might want to walk through wildflowers, stop at a rifugio for lunch and admire the mountains from below.
Ortisei makes both possible.
Stay in Ortisei if: your priority is spectacular scenery, Seceda, alpine meadows, mountain huts, Sassolungo and easy access to a wide range of hikes without having to drive everywhere.
Pro Tip: Plan at least 4 nights in the area so you can take advantage of the Gardena lift pass.
San Candido: The Best Base for the Three Peaks
Then there's San Candido, known as Innichen in German.
Speaking of German, this town had the least Italian feel to me. The language and food was mostly German and was the closest to the Austrian border. In fact, one of our favorite things we did was to rent a bike for the day and ride it {mostly downhill} into Austria before dropping off our bike and returning via train. More on that later!
Located in the northeastern Dolomites, San Candido is part of the 3 Zinnen Dolomites region and sits near the Three Peaks Nature Park.
If seeing Tre Cime di Lavaredo is at the top of your Dolomites bucket list, San Candido deserves serious consideration as a home base.
The Three Peaks region encompasses San Candido, Sesto, Dobbiaco, Villabassa and Braies and includes some of the most famous landscapes in the northeastern Dolomites.
Hike around Tre Cime di Lavaredo
The Three Peaks of Lavaredo are arguably the most recognizable mountains in the Dolomites.
The three dramatic peaks rise to nearly 3,000 meters, with Cima Grande reaching 2,999 meters.
You don't have to climb the Three Peaks to experience them! There's something spectacular about hiking around them.
The classic loop around Tre Cime is a hiking route that allows you to see the mountains from different angles.
Pro Tip: There is a timed reservation system for parking in place with bookings starting 30 days out from your desired date. These time slots go quickly and must be reserved. The road leading up to the parking lot is license plate controlled. If you are renting a car, you can reserve a parking spot without knowing your license plate {you must enter it at least 24 hours in advance}.
Parking is near Rifugio Aurozo and from that area you can also access Cadini di Misurina.
Pro Tip: Depending on the time of your reservation, take into account when you want to time your hike to Cadini di Misurina. It is a shorter out and back hike with narrow trails and not a lot of passing room. We opted to hike it after our Tre Cime loop trail and went around 4 pm when it was less crowded. If you have an earlier reservation, consider doing the Cadini trail first.
Bike the San Candido to Lienz Cycle Path
San Candido is also a great base if you want to give your legs a break from hiking while still getting out and exploring the landscape. One of the most popular activities in the area is riding the Drava Cycle Path from San Candido to Lienz, Austria.
The route follows the Drava River and travels from Italy into Austria, making it a fun way to experience two countries in a single day. The full route from San Candido to Lienz is roughly 44 kilometers, or about 27 miles, but don't let that distance scare you away. The route is largely downhill {and very well marked}, which makes it much more approachable than a typical mountain bike ride.
You can rent bikes in San Candido, making this an easy excursion to add to your itinerary without having to bring your own bike all the way to Italy. When we visited there were plenty of bikes to rent, so we were able to visit Lago di Braies at sunrise and take a nap before our ride.
The best part? You don't have to ride back.
Once you arrive in Lienz, Austria, you can return the bikes or load them onto the train for the trip back toward San Candido, depending on the rental arrangement and current bike-transport rules, the cost was exactly the same to do either option when we visited. This makes the ride feel much more like a leisurely day of exploring than a 55-mile round trip.
Lienz itself is worth some time, too. The Austrian town has a lovely historic center, cafés, restaurants and shops, making it a natural place to stop for lunch or spend a few hours before heading back to Italy.
This is one of those experiences that makes San Candido especially appealing for a longer Dolomites trip. You can spend one day tackling a serious mountain hike, another exploring the Tre Cime, and then have a completely different kind of adventure the next day cycling from Italy into Austria with the mountains surrounding you.
And if you're traveling with family or a group with different hiking abilities, this can be a particularly good option. You don't have to be an avid cyclist to enjoy the route, and the mostly downhill profile means you're not spending the entire day grinding your way up a mountain.
Pro Tip: save money and rent a classic bike not an E bike for this ride. An E bike isn't necessary for this mostly downhill route.
So, Where Should You Stay in the Dolomites?
There isn't one single Dolomites base that works for every traveler. That's actually part of the fun.
Think about the mountains you most want to see. And if you have enough time, don't feel like you have to choose only one.
Pro Tip: The posts I saw on the internet made me think that I'd need to have early morning wake ups and long drives to hikes daily. This is only if you don't plan your trip right! The need to start early is because many parking lots at trailheads are small and first come first serve and fill up quickly. Plan your home bases right and you can have leisurely mornings without having to fight for parking spaces!
The Dolomites are an excellent place for a multi-base trip because moving between regions gives you an entirely different perspective on the mountains.
You could start in Cortina, spending several days hiking around Cinque Torri and Lagazuoi before exploring the Tofana area. Then move west to Ortisei for Seceda, the Odle peaks and Alpe di Siusi. Finish in San Candido for Tre Cime and the Three Peaks Nature Park.
That's a trip that would give you three very different versions of the Dolomites.
A Few Things to Know Before You Plan Your Dolomites Hiking Trip
The biggest mistake would be thinking that a trip to the Dolomites is simply about picking a hotel and showing up with hiking shoes.
Check the lift schedules
Many of the best high-altitude hikes are made much easier by cable cars and chairlifts. The lifts are seasonal, and operating dates can vary.
Pay attention to trail conditions
We were chatting at lunch with some midwest travelers. As someone who lives near the mountains I forget that it isn't always second nature to know this. Mountain weather can change quickly, and conditions at 2,500 meters can be dramatically different from conditions in town. Many of the areas have live cameras. Check those before you hike.
Don't underestimate elevation
A trail that looks manageable on a map can feel very different when you're hiking at altitude with significant elevation gain. Trust me. After a few hikes, you'll get pretty good at knowing what your limits are when it comes to elevation gain.
Keep that in mind too when you see other travel creators encouraging you to "just walk up" to avoid expensive chair lifts. I'm looking at you Seceda!
Consider a half board option
Many hotels will offer a half board option. This generally includes breakfast and a multi-course dinner. This is part of the experience in this area, so don't miss it in at least one of your stays in the Dolomites. We were glad we had it at the end of our trip in San Candido.
Don't try to do everything
It will be tempting to want to see all the peaks and hit every trail you've had saved from social media. Don't try to do it all! It will just feel overwhelming. We had nearly two weeks to explore these three areas. If you don't have as much time, slow it down a bit and only select two home bases instead of three. I'd recommend Oritsei {at least 4 nights to take advantage of the Gardena pass} and San Candido {less expensive than Cortina and accessible to similar hikes}.
Build in flexibility
I would much rather have two days in one area with the flexibility to choose a hike based on weather than create an itinerary that requires perfect conditions every single day.
And perhaps most importantly, don't make every day about getting to the next viewpoint.
The Dolomites are one of those places where the journey really is the destination.
Stop for lunch at a rifugio. Sit in an alpine meadow. Take the long way back. Watch the mountains change color in the afternoon. Give yourself enough time to actually experience the place rather than simply collecting the famous viewpoints.
Because whether you're standing beneath the jagged Odle peaks at Seceda, looking up at the Cinque Torri from a mountain trail, or seeing Tre Cime appear in front of you for the first time, the Dolomites aren't just somewhere you go to hike. They're somewhere you go to remember what it feels like to be completely surrounded by mountains.
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